Thursday, October 21, 2010

Bandji: The Escape Artist

Bonjour!

We promise these posts will come more frequently – we’re just days away from purchasing a car battery so we can charge our computer at home. However, you’re in luck - we’re sure by now the unfaithful followers have given up on us. This leaves a more intimate audience to share all the great stories and details of our lives. So be prepared for things to get a bit more interesting in the next post!!

The past few weeks since our last update have been busy. We’ve been spending as much time as possible in our village getting to know people, learning their needs and desires, and determining potential projects. We’re especially excited to work with the women in Karfiguela as they’ve shown a lot of energy, enthusiasm, and initiative.

Since our arrival in village we’ve wanted a cat both for the furry friendship they provide and to help catch the insects that inevitably find their way into our house. We asked Siaka (James’s counterpart) to help us find a kitten and one night while having tea, he sent his younger brother to fetch it. A few minutes later, his brother rolled up on a bike holding a rice bag, and needless to say, we were a little weary. We returned home and opened the bag to find a rather homely kitten inside. It had a face only a mother could love and looked rather sickly, but we were the proud new parents nonetheless. We named him Bandji (bahn-jee) after the palm wine that many people enjoy in this region. Bandji was scared, but after some powdered milk and cat food (yes, we bought cat food from one of the few places in all of Burkina that sells it) he hid comfortably in a nest we made from a basket and some fabric in our “garage.” The next day during playtime, Julie set Bandji down on our porch and he immediately ran like an escaped convict into the tall weeds. Hours of searching turned up nothing and other than several brief sightings later that day and some “meows” coming from the darkness, we couldn’t find him. While away, Issouf, one of the neighbor kids, found Bandji and placed him back into the holding cell. When we returned, we found a worm-like parasite in Bandji’s paw, so Siaka took him to a vet in Banfora for vaccinations and medication. Upon Bandji’s return, we learned that “he” was actually a “she.” The next several days we played both doctor and prison guard to she-Bandji, going out to the garage either to feed or to medicate. We were used to the game of hide-and-seek that Bandji liked to play during our visits, but this day, she wasn’t in the garage at all. We haven’t seen her since, but can only venture to guess that Bandji found the strength and courage to climb up a pile of wood, squeeze through the partially open window, and leap into the weeds to freedom. We now have another kitten on order, so we’ll let you know how Bandji 2.0 goes.

We’re happy to report that we’ve survived our first scorpion attack! It was a typical evening chez James and Julie, and we had just finished dinner. Julie left the kitchen/sitting room, headlamp in hand, and as she turned down the hall, she saw something scurry away from our bedroom door. On a normal night, catching something scurrying is nothing new. Ants, lizards, spiders, and crickets (and mosquitoes!) are all frequent guests at our house. There was something different about this scurry. Julie noticed the arched tail and announced there was a scorpion in the house. James, being the man he is, yelped and immediately jumped up onto the cot while Julie tracked its path down the hall. The scorpion found itself cornered near the bathroom where Julie covered it with a large salad bowl. Our first goal was to get it out of the house; the second goal was to kill it. Julie slid a thin but sturdy cutting board under the bowl, flipped it over and brought it outside on the patio. James’ brilliant contribution to the effort was the use of Rambo (it’s like Raid in the U.S. but with an awesome name!). James, machete in hand, Rambo’d the scorpion to death. Then in a mix of revenge and celebration, James chopped the scorpion’s tail off with a machete. J&J: 1, Scorpions: 0.



In other wildlife news, as we were biking home the other day, we spotted a snake under the mango tree. This sighting prompted James and Siaka to clear away the 6 to 8 foot tall weeds around the house during which Siaka killed another snake. We saw two more in the several hours following the weed removal, but we’re hopeful that we don’t come across too many more. Most snakes in Burkina aren’t dangerous, but snakebites still hurt!



As you may have viewed in our online photo albums, Julie and I recently visited two volunteers in nearby villages. In Diarabakoko, we helped Leslie with a girls’ camp and got the recipe for an all-natural shea butter mosquito repellent (boil neem leaves, add soap then shea butter; stir often), which we may start making with our women’s groups in Karfiguela.



In Takaledougou, we visited Amanda and the nearby marche for some delicious and hard-to-find cashew butter. Our women’s groups are also interested in drying mangos, and conveniently enough, we able to tour Takaledougou’s small yet impressive mango-drying factory, which exports dried mangos to Europe (and maybe soon to the U.S.!). Even more amazing, the entire facility is run without electricity.



Au revoir!

James & Julie

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Pen Pals

We're going to be pen pals with our hometown high school French class during our two years here. Here's our first letter to French students at Ankeny High School!

10 Octobre 2010

Bonjour les classes de français! On va commencer en anglais et après un peu de francais.

Our background
James graduated from Ankeny High School in 2000 and spent three years at Drake University, eventually deciding on a business degree. Around that same time, Julie graduated from Ankeny High and they both started at Iowa State University. Julie knew ever since her high school trip to France that she wanted to study abroad, and James just couldn’t miss out on the opportunity as well. They both spent a semester in the northern city of Amiens, France practicing French, learning about the culture, traveling, and of course, studying once in a while. James graduated from ISU in 2005 with degrees in Finance and Management and worked in corporate finance at John Deere for two years in Moline, IL. Julie graduated in 2007 with an accounting and finance degree and after a brief tour of the U.S. and Europe, she and James moved to Minneapolis where they spent the next two years working in finance – Julie at General Mills (maker of Cheerios and Yoplait yogurt) and James at UnitedHealth Group.

Now, they will call Africa home for the next two years as Peace Corps Volunteers.

Peace Corps in Burkina Faso
John F. Kennedy started the Peace Corps in 1961 as an international development agency that operates under the U.S. government. The three goals of Peace Corps are:
  • To help the people of interested countries in meeting their need for trained men and women.
  • To help promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of people served.
  • To help promote a better understanding of other people on the part of Americans.
Peace Corps volunteers come from a variety of backgrounds, range in age from 18 to 80, and work in sectors like business, education, agriculture, environment, and health.

There are four sectors currently serving in Burkina Faso: Secondary Education, Small-Enterprise Development (SED), Girls Education and Empowerment (GEE), and Health. While each sector has its own job description and goals, they are all interconnected in their roles in development. Projects are community driven, ca va dire, villages express their needs and projects are chosen based on feasibility and motivation. Training is done separately for each sector, but once a volunteer arrives at site, he or she can work on projects from any sector.

Julie is serving as a volunteer in the Girls Education and Empowerment sector. A GEE volunteer’s goals is to empower women and girls and to increase the enrollment and retention of girls in school. This is a very difficult task as many families cannot afford to send their children to school and need the entire family to help in the fields and around the house. Most girls in village spend their days getting water, pounding corn to make to (pronounced “toe,” a common dish in Burkina Faso), preparing meals, caring for younger siblings, doing laundry by hand, and working in the fields without the aid of machinery. Some of Julie’s potential future projects include: securing funds and managing the construction of our village’s partially finished school, girls clubs and camps, working with the women’s associations/micro-credit clubs, partnering with the community health clinic to increase usage, and holding formations on basic hygiene, importance of and methods for family planning, and how to avoid malaria.

James is serving as a small-enterprise development volunteer. SED volunteers work with individuals and larger associations to improve business practices and management, start new income-generating activities, and grow existing small businesses. James’ potential future projects include:  working with the village campement to increase tourist traffic, helping repair the canals that provide water to the rice fields, developing new small enterprises like a tourist boutique, agriculture projects like Moringa tree plantings and drying of mangos, and assisting the rice cooperative with their management skills. Note: Moringa trees are fast-growing, have highly nutritious leaves, and are an important resource in fighting malnutrition in Sub-Saharan Africa. When comparing pound by pound, Moringa leaves have twice the protein of yogurt, three times the potassium of bananas, seven times the vitamin C of oranges, four times the vitamin A of carrots, and four times the calcium of milk.

Secondary Education volunteers teach math, physics, chemistry, and IT (basic computer skills) in the lycees and colleges. Many also lead less formal English language classes.

Health volunteers typically work in villages and in conjunction with the local public health facilities (CSPS). Common projects include sanitation (using latrines, handwashing, etc.), nutrition, family planning, general health education, and baby-weighings.

Our home in Karfiguela
While most of Burkina is a dry, Sahelian climate with lots of red dirt and sand, we are fortunate to live in the lush, green south. The village of Karfiguela (population ~ 1,000) is located 8 kilometers from Banfora in southwestern Burkina Faso and is surrounded by sugar cane and rice fields. Our village is Muslim with animist traditions and was settled long ago by people in search of fertile land to grow crops. Farmers grew corn, millet, and garden crops such as tomatoes, onions and cucumbers until the 1970’s when a Chinese group came to Karfiguela and built sophisticated cement canals and taught the villagers how to cultivate rice. Now much of the livelihood of the village is dependent upon rice production. The group also constructed several buildings where they lived and worked in the outskirts of the community, and we now live in one of those houses from the 1970’s! Our home is cement with a metal roof, and like the rest of our village, we do not have electricity or running water, so we use headlamps and candles at night and get water from the nearby pump.

The village is organized into clusters of mud-brick huts with thatch roofs (except for the occasional cement and tin roofed house) connected by narrow dirt paths.  Large families live in each cluster and  since the houses are usually one room and used only for sleeping, the courtyard is the heart of the family. Everything happens in there – families socialize, prepare meals, receive guests, dry crops, and care for their animals (goats, sheep, chickens).

While Burkina is not known as a must-see destination, Karfiguela is near two of the top attractions in the country – the Cascades de Karfiguela (beautiful waterfalls) and the Domes of Fabédougou (unique 1.8 billion year old rock formations that formed when there was an ancient sea in this region). Because of its favorable location near these attractions, our village gets some tourists (mostly Europeans and mostly French), and since people are more used to seeing foreigners, children don’t cry at the sight of a “toubabou” (Jula word for foreigner) but do tend to ask for cadeaux.

L’école a Burkina Faso
Le premier d’Octobre était le premier jour d’école a Burkina Faso. Le premier jour, il n y a pas des cours et tous les élèves nettoient les salles de classes. Aussi, les parents des élèves coupent les herbes entre les bâtiments. Le jour d’école est 8h – 12h et 15h – 17h avec une repose entre 12h et 15h. La repose est pour le déjeuner et parce qu’il fait très chaud pendant l’après midi. La système d’éducation est un peu comme la système de France. Dans l’école primaire, il y a 6 nivaux: CP1, CP2, CE1, CE2, CM1, and CM2. Le succès est très difficile pour les étudiants à Karfiguela. Il n’y a pas un collège dans notre village, donc,  il est nécessaire pour les élèves qui continuent leurs études d’aller au Banfora ou un autre village, Tangrela.  L’inscription pour un élève est 2,000 CFA ($4) chaque année est malheureusement beaucoup des gens au village n’ont pas l’argent pour l’école.  Aussi, il est nécessaire pour les élèves d’avoir les stylos (les Bics), les cahiers, les règles, et les habilles propre.  Les élèves qui peuvent aller à l’école, c’est difficile de faire les devoirs. Apres l’école ils ont beaucoup de travail (spécialement les filles) à la maison, et sans l’électricité, il n ya pas les lumières pour étudier. Julie espère qu’elle peut travailler avec le village et avec les enseigneurs pour améliorer les problèmes d’école.

La langue Français a Burkina Faso n’est pas le même qu’en France.  Le Français est la deuxième ou troisième ou peut-être quatrième langue pour la plupart des Burkinabé et beaucoup parlent juste la langue locale (Moré, Jula, Karaboro, etc.) et un peu de Français, sauf on a fini l’université. La grammaire n’est pas stricte et aussi, ils utilisent les mots différents.  Par exemple, on dit «bœuf » plutôt que « vache » et « porcs » plutôt que « cochon. » Aussi il y a beaucoup des mots d’argot, d’Arabe, et de la langue locale.

We attempted to do some in English and some in French! Again, let us know if there is anything you’d like us to change going forward and please send us questions or general topics that we can answer and discuss in our next email!

A bientôt!
James & Julie

Girls Camp and 1st Day of School

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Home Sweet Home


Karfiguela, Burkina Faso
Chez nous

Our dearest friends and families,

Ma ni ce (mah nee chay), merci, thank you for your patience as we grow accustomed to our new schedules and life here in Burkina. We are done with our two months of training and are now living at site! Our village is beautiful—it doesn’t even feel like we’re in the same country. It’s more green and lush than the northern part and the palm trees and small hills in the distance make us feel like we’re on a tropical island minus the ocean and beach. The name of our village is Karfiguela, population ~1000, and it’s near the Cascades (gorgeous waterfalls), the Domes (amazing rock formations), and Banfora (large town with a few restaurants, cold drinks, a good sized marche to buy produce and other goods, and real cheese, which is a rarity outside of Ouaga). Our village does not have electricity (the stars at night are absolutely amazing) and all water comes from the village pumps. The nearest internet cafe is in Banfora, and as with most internet in Burkina, the connection speed and the computers are similar to what was in the U.S. in the early 90s. Be patient with our posting :).

Our house is charming. It was built in the 1970s by either the Chinese or Taiwanese (no one remembers exactly which country they were from and most Burkinabe think anyone who looks like they’re from SE Asia is Chinese – they’re amazed by the diversity of Americans and find it hard to believe that there are Asian Americans, African Americans, etc., but this is a topic for a future post). The roof is metal as are almost all volunteers’ roofs and the floor is cement. The house has a main room for sitting and cooking, a bedroom, an indoor room to bathe in, and an extra room outside that we use as a garage to store our bikes, tools, and other random items. The house was originally built with indoor plumbing and a generator for electricity, so there are little reminders of modern comforts like the non-functioning sink in the indoor bathroom. Our latrine is right next to the house, which is very convenient, and there is a huge mango tree in the front yard that is so very lovely to sit under in the afternoon. April is the start of mango season, so send any recipes our way. We found one recipe for mango wine in the cookbook put together by other volunteers, so we'll let you know how that goes this spring. The house also comes with a group of adorable children who live in the same courtyard. They come over to check on us at least once a day and hang out for a little while on our cement terrace or under the mango tree. We’re going to get some chalk so they can color on the cement and have a place to play.

Living in Africa is a challenge and we are often reminded of American life in the 1800s (Little House on the Prairie, anyone?). Everything takes more time – washing dishes and clothes involves bringing water on our bikes from the nearby pump then scrubbing by hand. We fill a 200L garbage can-sized container in our garage with water and we go through it quickly when it’s a wash day. Preparing meals takes pre-planning as most of our shopping is done in Banfora, which is 8k away or 30 minutes by bike. There is a small boutique in the village that sells some small essentials like tomato paste, drinks ranging from Coke (warm because there’s no electricity for refrigeration) to boxed wine (Karfiguela is mostly Muslim but very “gauche” aka left), bread, small packets of powdered milk, Omo (powdered soap that’s best for clothes but can be used to clean anything), candles, rice, etc. We’re going to attempt to make friends with gardeners in our community and buy as much of our produce in village as we can, but that can prove challenging due to availability and village politics (more later). Needless to say, our appreciation for supermarkets, packaged food, and machines that wash clothes automatically has grown significantly.

We arrived in village this past Thursday after spending a few days in Banfora shopping for whatever items we needed. The quintessential bright white Land Cruiser that all NGOs seem to have, ours with the Peace Corps symbol on the side doors, dropped us off around 8:30 in the morning and our neighbors helped us unload. We didn’t experience what some volunteers do – mild panic when the Peace Corps car pulls away. For one, James and I are together, and two, we’re fortunate enough to have a rare overlap with Kat, the volunteer who we’re replacing. The knowledge transfer from her and other nearby PCVs (Peace Corps Volunteers) has been amazing, and we’re getting up to speed faster than we imagined. We’re getting to know the community, its needs and wants, the language (the little bit of Karaboro we learned during training is a different dialect than Karfiguela’s Karaboro. Again, more on the language later), and learning all the little things like where a good tailor is (almost all clothes are custom made; you pick out the pagne aka fabric and take it to a tailor and a few days later you have a new outfit), the route to nearby villages (street signs are nonexistent in Burkina except for the occasional few in large cities), where to find the best peanut butter, how to cook well with the available ingredients (we had fried eggplant sandwiches with tomato sauce last night – yum!), etc.

We make small goals each day as we settle into our house and meet community members. It’s rainy season, and everyone cultivates their fields during the day, so most of our interactions and work will be at night when people are around. Our first night in village, Siaka (James's counterpart in village who he'll work with on various projects over the next couple of years; my counterpart is in Bobo right now due to a death in the family, so I haven't met her yet) took us to meet the chief, who curiously was wearing a boubou (long shirt and pant outfit) without the pants. He welcomed and thanked us for coming to Karfiguela and gave us a benediction for the success of our work. Friday we biked to a nearby village to visit another volunteer and go to the awesome marche there to get some fruits and veggies. It poured rain so the ride home was like a refreshing shower. Yesterday we did some laundry and dishes, got water, painted our new table that we’ll use to prepare food on and store dishes (gas burners on the top with shelves underneath), and in the evening we met the President of the Parents’ Association for the primary school and the President of one of the women’s associations.

We have more control over our schedule now, and we promise to write more frequently. We started a list of potential future topics:

Village politics
Serving as a couple and the opportunities for expanding minds
Culture exchange
Karaboro, our new language
The Burkinabe (stereotypes, labeling people, etc.)
Insects
Food
Burkinabe children
Medical training, issues, etc.
Burkina fashion
Peace Corps (goals, development philosophy, etc.)
Burkina Faso, the country

Email or post if there’s anything you want to know more about, otherwise we’ll continue to ramble on various items of our choosing.

O ma ple guri (o mah plee gurr-ee),

Julie et James